Improvement in hat-finishing machines



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Patented Dec 22,1874

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44 PARK PLAEE,N.Y.

UNITED STATES PATENT OEEroE.

JAMES w. COREY, 0E N WARK, NEW JERSEY.

IMPROVEMENT IN HAT- FINISHING MACHINES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 158,038, dated December 22, 1874; application filed December 3, 1874.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, JAMES W. COREY, of Newark, New Jersey, have invented Improvements in Hat-Finishing Machines, of which the following is a specification:

During the finishingoperations of a hat-body it is stretched upon a block, which sustains it during all of the finishing manipulations of its surface. In practice it must be inclined at all angles from a horizontal to a vertical plane, in order that the workman may readily operate upon its various angles and surfaces. This inclination and support is usually given by one hand, while with the other the iron, brush, or other finishing device is directed.

The object of one. part of my invention is to facilitate-this operation and to that end consists in a mechanical means for supporting the hat-body fixedly in any of the desired positions of inclination from a vertical position, in which position it may be swung axially into any desired relation to the workman, while, at the same time, its rotary motion is not impeded, thus leaving both hands of the operative free, and supporting the hat-body so that it may be reached in any direction by the workman.

To the finishing process known as curling the brim the same mechanical appliances are adapted, whereby not only the varied fixed positions and independent rotation are secured, but the brim-cloth is automatically stretched and adjusted, all of which will be more particularly hereinafter set forth, reference being had to the accompanying drawing, in which- Figure l is an elevation of my apparatus, with a hat thereon undergoing the finishing operation of ironing. Fig. 2 is a horizontal sectional view, showing the brim-curling devices mounted in position. Fig. 3 is a sectional "iew, showing the brim-cloth adjusted in operative position. Fig. 4 is a plan and sectional view of a modification of the brim-cloth-adjusting devices. Fig.5 is a perspective view of the brim-cloth. Fig. 6 is a plan view, showin g the relation of the brim-cloth-clampin g devices to the flanging-ring. Fig. 7 is an end view of the curling devices, with the hat-body and brim-cloth in section. Fig.8 is a plan view of the apparatus with curling devices attached, the brim-cloth being removed. Fig.

9 is a sectional view of a part of the standard and hollow sleeve, showing an alternate means for adjusting its altitude, while at the same time permitting its free rotation; and Fig. 10 is a section of the block, brim-board, and chuck combined.

The devices are mounted upon a standard or column, A, within which a hollow sleeve, B, is fitted so as to slide vertically and be secured at any desired altitude by a retainingscrew, 00, which, fitting into any one of a series of annular exterior grooves in the sleeve B, permits its rotation together with the devices it supports.

A collar bearing upon the top of the standard or column, and adjustable in fixed positions on the sleeve B, might be substituted for the annular grooves and screw 00, as is fully shown in Fig. 9.

The shaft is within the sleeve B is squared or feathered at its lower end, to provide for its vertical movement in the pinion which imparts to it its rotary motion. nates in a bifurcated frame, 11, in which is journaled a horizontal shaft, a, which supports, and upon which swings, a second bifurcated frame, b, which in turn supports the hat-block spindle T. One arm of the frame 1), extending downward, terminates in a ratchet-segment, O, which a dog or pawl, D, pivoted to a bracket on the sleeve B, sustains fixedly at any angle of inclination. For these latter devices a segment-gear and pinion might be substituted. Extending through'the standard A and sleeve B, a shaft, 70, to which rotation is imparted by a pulley, as in Fig.8, or by a system of gears, as in Fig. 2, terminates in a horizontal bevelgear, m, within the lower bifurcated frame I). This gear-wheel meshes into a vertical companion bevel-gear, 0, journaled on shaft a, and it in turn engages a similar bevel-gear, n, on the lower end of a stem, n, which extends down from the base of the spindle T, and is journaled in the upper bifurcated frame. The pinions m and a are secured to their shafts by sleeves and pins, to retain them in their proper relations to the frames b b, and secure their operative engagement with the gear 0.

By this construction the rotation of the spindle T is positively secured through the shaft k and gears m n 0, no matter what angle of in- The sleeve B termiclination is given to the spindle T by the adjustment of the swinging bifurcated frame 1), since the said frames hold the gears in operative contact, and the segment and pawl fixedly sustain the frames in their various relative inclinations. Thus the vertical position of the hat and block, while the tip and upper brim are operated upon as in Fig. 1, or the inclination at an angle of about forty-five degrees, when the square is undergoing treatment, or nearly a horizontal position forfinishing the side crown, may all be attained while the rotation is maintained by the devices and in the manner above described.

It is sometimes necessary and often desirable that the block while inclined from its vertical position shall be swung away from or toward the operator, and this is especially necessary when the standard projects through a work-table, as will usually be the case. For this purpose the block and all of its supporting devices, being supported upon the sleeve B, which is capable of rotation in the standard A, may be swung bodily into any desired position relative to the workman, so that an inclination to the right or left side toward or from the operator, or at any intermediate point between these positions, may be accomplished at will without disturbing the rotary motion of the block. The block is provided with a chuck, G, having the usual dowel-pins for attachment to the block, and which also has recesses in its base, to engage with the dowel-pin on the spindle-head T, in manner as is shown in Fig. 10, and lock it thereto, to secure its rotation. This union may be effected by serrations or saw-teeth, as is shown in Fig. 8, whereby, when the hat-body-supporting devices are not being rotated, a circular adjustment relative to the operator may be effected. This chuck also sustains the brim-board and crown-block together when both are used, as is familiar to hatters, and illustrated in Fig. 10, whereby the brim is supported to be finished on its upper side, in manner similar to the operations on the crown. In order to secure the proper curl of the brim, as well as to finish its under surface, I place the body containing the crownblock in an inverted position within a flanging-frame, (shown in Figs. 2, 3, 6, 7, and 8,) which consists of a hollow base, J, from which arms K extend upward on opposite sides, to join and support an oval ring, L. This ring L constitutes a support for a brim-fianging ring, M, which is secured thereon by studs or pins, so as to be removable and interchangeable with others of differing pattern or shape and size. The hollow base J is seated upon a projecting flange of the hollow chuck G, which supports it, and upon which it rotates. The chuck G is locked to the spindle-head T by a dowel-pin, as in Fig. 2, orby serrated teeth, as in Fig. 8, by which its rotation in unison with the spindle is secured. The chuck G has an annular groove about its exterior, into which a set-screw, N, in the hollow base J extends, to secure them in their relative vertical relation, while permitting a free axial motion, and for a purpose hereinafter explained. The chuck G extends-upward into a hollow screw, which engages a nut, I, from opposite sides of which arms P extend through vertical slots in the hollow base J. These arms carry hooks attheir extremities, and are adjustable vertically upon the screw, for purposes fully hereafter set forth. A plate, d, has a screw-rod depending from its under side, which screws .inra proper-threaded opening in the frame K, by which means its vertical adjustment is secured. Clamping plates f, curved to suit the shape of the brim-flange, are fixed to arms g, pivoted to the frame K, so as to swing latererally thereon, and carry eyes t, fixed to their exterior faces, through which a binding-cord, e, is rove. WVhen the tension of this cord, whose ends arejoined by aslip-knot, is secured, and its free end is bent around the cleat h, the clamps and cord closely embrace the periphery of the fianging-ring under its projecting or overhanging edge. I The hat-body, with the crown-block within it, is inverted within the frame K, so that the tip of the crown shall rest upon and be supported by the plate d, or a suitably-shaped block resting thereon, and the plate 01 is adjusted by its screw-rod, so that while the crown is supported the band ing-point shall be properly related to the inner edge of the flanging-ring. In this position, as in Fig. 8, an approximate curl might be given to the brim by the usual ironing pro cess, and the under brim may be ironed; but in order to secure a perfect brim curvature, corresponding'not only to the boat form, but secure the curl or overhang of its edge, I use a brim-cloth, It, which is a bias-piece having rings or buckles firmly secured at opposite points to two of its sides. A draw-string or simple gathering of its edge, whereby a cap form is secured, I have found to be desirable, though an ungathered piece may be used.

This brim-cloth is placed over the hatbody so as to cover it and envelop its brim, and the rings are hooked over the hooks P, as shown in Figs. 3 and 7 The whole frame K is now rotated on the chuck G, and as the base J carries with it in its rotation the hooked arms P, which project through its slots, as in Figs. 3 and 7, it is manifest that the screw-nut will descend upon the screw-thread of the stationary chuck G, thus drawing down the brimcloth evenly over the hat-brim until the proper tension is secured, when the screwN is set up to secure the base J and chuck G firmly together. The tension of the brim-cloth over the fianging-ring causes the brim to be smooth- 1y distended over the curved surface of the said fianging-ring, and also to be drawn about and wrapped under its overhanging flange. 1n order to more perfectly cause the hatbriin to be wrapped and bear against the under side of this flange, the draw-string e is tightened about it, (it might precede the rotation to pro duce the tension of the brim-cloth,) which operation causes the clamp-plates g at the ends of the body to force the brim-edge snu'gly against and under the overhanging rim of the facilitate the use of the iron necessary to this operation, the whole bodysupporting devices may be moved into any of the angular positions requisite or convenient to the manipulation of this tool by the devices and means described in the operation of finishing the crown, as shown in Fig. 1.

As a rapid motion is required for brushing and for wetting the body, alluring, and pouncing, and a slow motion for ironing, I adopt the usual mode of accomplishing such changes of the speed of rotation. In Fig. 3 I have illustrated a hat undergoing the brim-curling operation, while its crown is not supported by the crown-block. This operation is practical with all hats. In this operation the plate cl will be lowered out of the way. My apparatus is thus adapted to the curling'of the brims of soft and stiff hats alike, whether they be of felt or straw.

It is sometimes desirable to adjust the brimcloth by means independent of the rotation of the frame K. In Fig. 4 I have shown the base J provided with an external sorew-thread,

. upon which a nut, O, is threaded. This nut has a series of holes in its periphery, into which a hand-lever is inserted to rotate it; or it might have short handles affixed to it. The hooks P, in this instance, project from a ring which is large enough to clear the screwthread, and which is feathered to be guided in vertical slots in the exterior of the basepiece J.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim is- 1. In a hat-finishing machine, the hat block or body supporting devices, mounted upon a hollow-stemmed frame adapted to rotate within a hollow supporting-standard, whereby all motions are imparted in an axial line, and the manipulations of the body may be accomplished from all sides, substantially as shown and described.

2. In combination with the spindle-T, the doublebifurcated and hinged frames 1) b, beve'l-gears m n 0, sleeve 13, shaft 70, and standard A, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

3. The combination of bifurcated frames b b, shaft a, gears m n 0, shaft is, and spindle T, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

4. In combination with the bifurcated frame I), shaft a, gears m n 0, shaft k, spindle T, the bifurcated frame I), provided with the segmental rack G, and the pawl D, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

5. The combination of the brim flanging ring M, hinged clamps f, binding-cord e, and

brim-cloth R, substantially as shown and described.

6. The combination of the brim flanging ring M, brim-cloth R, and adjustable hooked nut P, substantially as described.

7. The combination of the brim-flanging ring M, brim-cloth R, hooked nut P, screwthreaded spindle G, and rotating hollow base J of the frame K, substantially as described.

8. The brimcloth R, gathered and provided with the eyes at opposite points, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

J. W. COREY.

Witnesses THos. S. CRANE, ARAM G. SAYRE. 

